Ruminations

Blog dedicated primarily to randomly selected news items; comments reflecting personal perceptions

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Pricking Pretensions

How the snobs among us cling to the belief that what is proclaimed to be rare, and that which carries a hefty price tag is in and of itself precious. To partake of the rare is to elevate oneself to the status of a connoisseur. An elevated self-regard, becoming one with the cognoscenti of the world. One-upsmanship of privilege and refined taste.

Not all is always what it seems, and when this is pointed out publicly in a manner that provokes humour, some level of sarcasm and irony, the practitioners of elitism should take notice. But human nature being what it is, designer labels, celebrity and those who emulate the buying habits and behaviours of the world's wealthy class will go on trying to be like them.

For example, people who value class and priorities of extreme privilege would always make their reservations at Milan's Osteria L'Intrepido. Where a 1998 Amarone Classico La Fabriseria can be had for $285, the better to enjoy your incomparably-prepared meal there. This outstanding restaurant has been featured in the latest issue of Wine Spectator, largely because of its list of vintage wines.

The American magazine, considered the ultimate and most followed magazine for wine snobs, has fallen flat on its snub-nosed face. It exists for the purpose of offering the potential to high-class eating establishments of being awarded one of the magazine's coveted awards of excellence.

Close to five thousand restaurants paid $250 each to apply for such an award. Out of which some 319 managed to win an award, a process of discernment in restaurant fare and wine excellence that earned the magazine over a million dollars. Now the magazine's reputation of being one of the most trusted authorities in the country is faltering.

One Robin Goldstein, the author of"The Wine Trials: 100 Everyday Wines under $15 that Beat $50 to $150 Wines in Brown-Bag Blind Tastings", turned his jaundiced eye on the magazine and its pretensions. Fully cognizant of the placebo effect, he set up a fake website for Osteria L'Intrepido, sent off the requisite $250 along with a copy of the menu to apply for one of the magazine's awards.

Wine Spectator awarded the non-existent restaurant and its bogus menu one of its coveted awards, resulting in an award plaque which most award-struck restauranteurs proudly hang in their premises.

Ho, ha, fooled you.

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